All metal hotends are great additions to your 3D printers. Manufacturers like E3D and MicroSwiss also sell hotends that are all-metal. No matter what brand you have there are things that you need to be aware of when printing with an all-metal hotend if you want to have high success and great looking prints. This is where the filament cools in the heatbreak and sticks to the inside of the heatbreak. Think of what happens if you cook food in a pan with no oil in it. The food sticks to the pan and is hard to get off.
This is what happens when you get a jam. Please sign in to leave a comment. Search How can we help? Enter your question below or have a look around. First off why would you want to upgrade to an all-metal hotend? Printing High Temp Filament Most stock hotends can only handle up to C before you damage the hotend.
What causes jams and how to address them Too much retraction We typically use about mm on our Bowden machines when fitted with our Tough Tube and mm when using stock PTFE tubing with the larger inside diameter.
Micro swiss upgrade gets clogged easily
Use the lowest amount of retraction that yields the best balance between print quality and risk of jamming. No lubrication in the heatbreak most common with PLA Canola can be used to oil the filament before insertion to the printer or introduced on the filament by adding a filament oiler. Another way is a dry PTFE lubricant This is best applied before the machine is used but if you want to go this way and you have been printing a while already on the heatbreak make sure to remove as much filament by pulling the filament out around C Once the heatbreak is clear or new shoot some Dry PTFE lube in there and let dry for 15 mins.
Then you are ready to print. We hope this article has been helpful to you and wish you Happy Printing!Login or Sign Up. Logging in Remember me. Log in. Forgot password or user name? Posts Latest Activity.
Page of 1. Filtered by:. Previous template Next. I just completed and posted a new video on the DrVax youtube channel discussing how I optimized a Cura profile to minimize stringing for my highly modified Ender 5. Since this forum limits the types of files supported in uploads, I changed the file extension to zip. You will need to change the extension back to. Finally I think you may want to change the flow rate back to from 95 and slow the prints down to 70 from 70 as my most recent prints have been slightly under extruded.
Let me know how this works out if you try the profile.
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Tags: None. Thank you your profile Ender 5 in Cura. Can you tuning Profile for PrusaSlicer 2. I very like your channel youtube. Last edited by lptrung ;AM. Comment Post Cancel. The idea behind my videos is to teach skills. You should just try using the information in my video to create your own Prusa profile.
It will be fun, you will learn a lot and you cannot break your printer with a profile. Vax i have an ender 5 with fullmetal hot end, and a skr 1,4 turbo card, i would likr to try your profile, but i cant figure out the path in cura where to put your files. To load the Cura profile you must be using a current version of Cura. The profile was created for Cura 4. Go into machine settings in Cura, select profiles, and do an import. Concherover commented. I get an error when I try this.
Super i figured it out, as soon the printer is done, i will try it out and give you a reviev on how it went thanks alot. I am going to continue testing, based on input from the community.I have a serious issue with my recently installed Micro Swiss MK10 extruder upgrade cooling block, guide and nozzle. I managed to print 2 files. The next day I wanted to start a new print and no filament was being extruded.
I couldn't even push the filament out manually, as if the extruder was still cold. Today, I have the same issue. There's another clog and I am really becoming inpatient. I had nothing but issues from the start and I was hoping that the extruder upgrade would solve some of them. Are there any tips that could solve this?
I am not going to take apart everything after every cooldown to clean up the extruder I know it's a bit old post, but does anyone know how to change my starting point on my Ender 3? After I have switched to Micro Swiss and turn my print - the nozzle prints out of the bed.
Thanks in advance for any help. Hey guys. I installed my micro swiss hotend last weekend along with the machined lever and extruder plate. Everything printed fine along with a 14hr print I did that weekend. I started to mess with the Pause at height plug in Cura. During Filament I noticed that It was hard to pull out the filament.
So i would need to extrude at least 1mm then I can pull out the filament easily. I started to get things stuck on the 2nd print whenever I would switch to my second color. Thinking it was the hotend, I then proceeded to take things apart. I discovered nothing wrong in the nozzle or extruder. I then stopped using pause at height and just in certain a piece of G-code to switch colors. After that all is fine; This metal hotend seems to flow much better than stock.
While nothing was wrong with my stock hotend, I decided to switch mine out mainly because I wanted a more permanent solution rather than a PTFE tube that I would need to replace once in awhile. All in all im happy with mine. Oh BTW, is thermal paste really necessary during install since my printer is fine.
I know there is one in SD3 and it was set pretty high, but since I only have a single extruder, it didn't matter. Followed youtube video in previous posts and micros swiss instructions, my hot end came with paste.
I put paste on cold block between fan also and on threads and no issues in my prints. Has improved print quality. One issue I am having is if I set my high temp to it seems to struggle to get to and then resets to zero stopping the print. Temps less than seem to work fine. I'm new to this, can you please link the update to the firmware and repertier host? I'm also trying to find out if PID tuning is essential and how to do it.
I replaced my tip with that kit with the MakerSelect block and had no problem but I also just got my microswiss block today too just to keep it all in the family. Although I wasn't having and issue I wanted to keep those parts all in the family and keep the spares for the clone I'm going to build.So, before flooding this with all my attempts and results I want to hear if you guys have any settings you wish to share I use Cura, but I guess the slicer is not going to be that much important.
I promise, in a few days I'll publish all my information, but I don't want to bias you, and yes, I've done extensive researches so I'm looking for your experiences and lessons learned. A quick update after a few tests and changes. The attached pictures show a model printed with the following parameters:. I'm pretty satisfied with the improvements obtained by reducing the fan speed and the quality of the suspended structures thankfully to the addition of the support interface and the extra distance: not the easiest supports to remove, but definitely the best aesthetic result so far.
My take on my experience so far is to avoid printing multiple parts at once as this worsens stringing. They look very poor For top surface, I've given a try at ironing with PETG and my results vary: it's effective only if you don't have any small details on the top surfaces, otherwise most of them just get deleted by dragging from the nozzle.
Like kanye and taylor swift, I have yet to get them to work well together. I will post a make of it when I get the photos taken, in the meantime when I get home I will post my petg profile for cura. Because I already have. I get good results with 70c bed temp. If what you have works way change it. Yes increased separation of the support roof at the Z axis. I had a hell of a time removing supports. I may turn it down to 75 but the layers held beautifully and minimal shrinkage.
Parts come out very accurate and strong. Obviously this is going to vary but but also I noticed, for me, temp irks best. I usually print parts for strength in petg with very little detail needed. Everything else seems fine. How does your suggested fan speed affect dimensional accuracy shrinkage and stringing? I am generally printing things for household use to assist my wife who has trouble gripping things, as well as parts that go into high-power rockets -- so accuracy and function are more important than pretty.
That said, dimensional accuracy is certainly acceptable for my purposes -- better than 0. Virtually everything that has to fit together does so without me having to do anything like sanding. I do get some wispy threads, but a pass with the heat gun takes care of that. I've considered dropping the fan speed more for the reasons you outlined, but right now my results are good enough for my purposes, and I'm hesitant to make changes to a working setup.
As the saying goes, "perfect is the enemy of 'good enough'". Thanks the detailed response. I will have to try these settings out and also find a reason to use my petg some more.I was having chronic problems trying to print a retraction test with my Ender 3.
I had recently replaced the stock extruder with a Micro Swiss all metal hot end. Being a bit "ham-fisted", I managed to break the thermistor soon after that. While changing that, I learned a bit maybe not enough about thermistortable Long story short, I got myself deeper and deeper into trouble until I could not print anything without clogging up the heat break by the time the printer started layer 2. I found a useful thread on the same issue in another group and the mystery was solved.
Basically, one tradeoff of using the all-metal hot end is that retraction distances more than 4mm are likely to pull softened filament up into the cool end, the extruder may then "jam" the soft filament in the heat break, when it pushes back down. I have still to investigate how much stringing this limitation is going to leave me dealing with, but at least restricting my retraction distance to 1. BTW - The Cura 4. For some reason, two successive commands each retract by 2mm, for a total of 4mm.
Hoping I don't regret it, I have removed one of those retractions, thinking the worst case will be when a print job ends with a retraction command, followed by the end Gcode retraction command s.
Only a thought but there's plenty nocking about and i fell into that trap a while back it had been reboxed the cheeky ebay seller. I did order and pay for a genuine Micro Swiss all-metal hot end, from a reputable online store. It does have 3mm screw holes in the finned body, but no screws are installed. The top end is a plastic collet, not a pneumatic connector. Came in the right box and looks like the ones on their website. The problem is that 1.
The conversation you linked is from a Wanhao Duplicator group which is a direct drive printer. I also got a micro swiss some months ago, and after some time I found out that going back to a brass nozzle instead of the steel one included in the kit helps with stringing. I also couldn't keep the previous retraction settings of 5mm tried a benchy and clogged the hotend after 30 minsI'm now running 3. Also disregard the micro swiss suggestion of raising the temperatures, is fine.
Thank you, yes I understand the Wanhao has a different configuration, but some of their comments also helped me understand my problem. I recently converted my setup to direct drive, but only reduced the retraction distance to 6mm and knew nothing about the end gcode in Cura. Most of my PLA got wet, after being open for a few months, and it took me a while to realize that was my main problem.
My first 15hr print with brand new PLA and 1. Heating to and extruding a few mm first eventually broke it free. I am wondering now whether I should let Cura retract 4mm or 0mm at the end of a job. I presently have that set to 2 mm, thinking Cura may add that to one final 1. I am presently printing using the Cura 4. I use 5. Some people will also recommend an oiler to help with chronic clogging, but I have no experience with those - just mentioning it if things get out of hand and you have no better option.
I'd suggest checking the hot end cooling fan just in case. Excessive retractions in the end gcode have caused me problems in the past with my Ender3, it was evident in my case when there was a perfect print on the bed and the next one couldn't start due to the clog. My start gcode does a purge line so anything that oozes from the nozzle is not an issue anyway. Something else that occurred to me since your printer had issues early in the print - it sounds like a problem I had when the nozzle was too low for the first layer.
I had problems like what you described when the nozzle z offset was not high enough to allow the correct amount of filament to come out, or my bed was not level and one side of the first layer was fine and the other was almost non-existent. The nozzle was effectively capped off for part of most of the first layer which I think compounded the retractions in that layer causing the clogs.
Thanks for sharing your settings. That is why I posted here.I got the kit and installed it yesterday. Here is a good video from ModBot about the installation. I followed this video to do my installation.
Take care to correctly position the heater block. I initially installed mine upside down and backwards and had to redo it. The thermistor goes toward the rear of the assembly and the hole is to the right. However, the kit came with a replacement part that did. I just removed the one that was in the part and replaced it with the other one. I had to make changes to my firmware. Otherwise, my printer tried to print off the left of the print bed as well as print off the front of the build plate.
Once I made those changes, it worked perfectly. I wanted to try some flexible filament, so I loaded it in and started to print the flexible octopus. I didn't make any adjustments to the print speed or the retraction settings. I later learned that this was a mistake. I had a jam because I was printing too fast. I also had a few of the octopus feet come off the bed and curl up.
All the parts ready to go Disassembly begins New assembly in place on the X gantry Take care to correctly position the heater block. The fitting that came on my part did not securely hold the Capricorn Tubing The 3D printed part that holds the original PTFE tube did not securely hold my Capricorn tubing.
Replacement fitting for Capricorn tubing Everything in place. Time for tuning. I've always wanted a green flexible octopus, and now I have one.
The Cerebral Kitchen. Share this.We participate in the Amazon affiliate program and may earn a commission if you make a purchase through links on our site. We also participate in other affiliate programs. The Ender 3 is one of the single most successful budget 3D printers around.
This has a lot to do with the quality of its components as well as its low price. However, a key feature that makes it so endearing to its dedicated fan following is its extreme flexibility. This is very easy to hack printer and it can be upgraded and modified as and when desired, to create a bespoke machine that would be perfect for your needs. One of the best things you can get for your machine would be an Ender 3 hotend upgrade.
This has a lot to do with the low range of materials that it can handle perfectly. This is the part where an all-metal hot end can come into the picture. As far as Creality Ender 3 upgrades go, it is a very important one indeed. The key issue here is that in every standard hotend there a PTFE tube that goes all the way right down to the nozzle located against the heat block.
In this case, the range of materials that this hotend can accommodate is limited. After all, the PTFE tube is directly responsible for emitting toxic fumes in the first place. Eventually, it will definitely have to be replaced if it is used for an extended period of time at very hot temperatures. However, in any all-metal hot end, the PTFE tube will never be inserted all the way down to the end.
On the contrary, it will instead sit on the top of the heat break itself. This is in fact, the key reason why people ever bother to upgrade to this type of hotend. Now that you know that all-metal hot end ender 3 pro upgrades are the best thing money can buy for your Ender machine, it is time to find that ideal one for your purpose.
There are few really good ones available in the market and we should take a closer look at those. You can also find a few for the CR 10 as well. However, it is imperative that you cull out the best from the rest and only opt for an all-metal one in order to derive the maximum benefit from your new purchase.
This is because there exist a whole lot of hotends for your Ender three series machine and they have been designed to work in lieu of your stock one. However, it does not matter whether it is an original piece or a clone, as long as it has been made of quality parts and it works fine and is both reliable and durable.
These hotends are some of the best ones available in the market and they definitely suit the Ender 3 and help it hit its optimal level of performance.
Their top-quality and ultra-precision manufacturing basically ensures the very best printing performance for just about all of your high-temperature printing needs. As a matter of fact, it is one of the best very best and most compatible hotends for your machine. It can be effortlessly and perfectly plugged into your unit without any need for purchasing any sort of extra brackets or mounts.
The new Micro Swiss hotend uses a cutting edge titanium heat breaker. One that actively helps to keep the heat well contained to the main heat block alone. Apart from that, the nozzle is also well plated with its own wear-resistant coating too.
This means that you can now easily print some of the more abrasive materials including carbon fiber as well as metal-filled filament without any need to worry about excessive nozzle wear.